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LANDMARKS
BEYAZIT TOWER
Almost all houses of old Istanbul were made of wood, and fire was therefore a very real threat and caused horrible disasters. This 50 meter high stone fire tower was built in 1828 by famed architects of the Balyan family on order of Sultan Mahmud II.
BOSPHORUS
 During the Byzantine period, when the villages along the Bosphorus strait had no roads linking them to each other, the people earned their living from fishing and gardening. The Ottoman sultans later had several palaces and villas built on these shores.
European side: Dolmabahce Palace with its eclectic structure reflecting western architectural styles, was built on the Bosphorus in the19th century. Next is the Besiktas area where stands the statue and tomb of Captain Barbaros Hayrettin in front of the Naval Museum and near the Museum of Fine Arts. On this side of the Bosphorus are many buildings by the Balyan family of architects, the most significant of which is the Çiragan Palace.This palace suffered great damage by fire in the late 19th century and lay in ruin until recently when it was restored and made into a hotel. The seaside gateway of the Yildiz Palace and Gardens is also here.
 Further along the shore are the Feriye palaces, then Ortaköy Square and Ortaköy mosque, an attractive location where one feels the texture of the city at its best. Next, passing under the great columns of the Bosphorus Bridge, you pass by Kuruçesme, Arnavutköy, Bebek, Rumelihisari (fortress), Emirgan, Üstinye, Yeniköy, Tarabya, Kirecburnu, Büyükdere and Sariyer, finally reaching the end of the European side of the Bosphorus at Rumeli Kavagi, last point before the entrance of the Black Sea.
Asian side: Opposite Rumeli Kavagi is Anadolu Kavagi on the Asian side of the mouth of the Bosphorus. South along the shore past Yusa Hill is Beykoz. Though it is quite a distance from city center, Istanbul residents usually go to eat the best fish at Beykoz. Next is Pasabahçe famous for its glass and bottle factories as well as liquor factories of the state monopoly.
After Pasabahce are Çubuklu and Anadoluhisar (Anatolian Fortress) famed for the good quality of clay on the shores of the Göksu and Küçüksu, freshwater rivers that flow into the Bosphorus.
Hence the development of pottery making in the area. Next is a bay between Vaniköy and Çengelköy where stands the Kuleli Military Academy. After Çengelköy comes Beylerbeyi and its famous Beylerbeyi Palace.
 Coming to the sea just past Kuzguncuk is today's Üsküdar, known in Byzantine times as the "Golden City." Today this neighborhood is adorned with the Mihrimah, the Semsi Pasha and Yeni Valide mosques built by the great architect Sinan, and the famous Selimiye barracks. At the meeting point of Kadiköy and Üsküdar stands the Haydarpasa Railway Station, last train stop in Asia. Kadiköy (ancient Calchedon) is one of the oldest inhabited districts of the city. Today it has luxury bayside neighborhoods, including Moda and Fenerbahce.
BOZDOGAN KEMERI
These 20 meter high and 1,000 meter long viaducts date from 375 in the Roman period of Emperor Valens. They carried water from the suburbs to the palace district.
BRIDGES
There was no bridge over the Golden Horn connecting both sides of Istanbul before the 19th century. Small boats provided transportation between the two shores. The first Galata Bridge, which connects present day Karaköy to Eminonü, was built in 1836, rebuilt in 1845, again in 1912, and lastly in 1993. The Unkapani (Atatürk) Bridge further up the Horn handles the flow of traffic between Beyoglu and Saraçhane. The third one over the Horn is called the Haliç Bridge. There are two big suspension bridges connecting the Asian and European sides of the Bosphorus. The first, the Bosphorus (Bogaziçi) Bridge was built in the 1970s and the second, the Fatih, was built in the 1980s.
CITY WALLS
Ever since they were first built by the city's founder, Byzas, the areas covered by the Istanbul city walls have varied over time. They took their present shape after Theodosius II added on the land walls. The wallswere encircled by a ditch 10 meters deep and 20 meters wide. The first wall, which was 2 meters thick and 8 1/2 meters high, began several meters beyond the ditch. About 20 meters further in was the inner wall, 5 meters thick and 12 meters high. On both the inner and the outer walls were placed 96 towerseach, many of which also had a gate. These gates were either for the civil population or the soldiers.
Only twice in their history were these sturdy gates violated,during the Latin invasion of 1204 and the conquest of Istanbul in 1453.
The Marmara Walls, 8,260 meters long, face theMarmara Sea. Their gates are Ahirkapi, Atladikapi, Samatya kapisi and Narlikapi.
The Land Walls, 5,632 meters in length, have 7 gates: Belgrat kapisi, Silivri kapi, Mevlevihane Kapisi, Topkapi, Edirnekapi, Egrikapi, and Yedikule ("7 towers") which the Byzantines adorned with three vaults and called "golden gate." The emperors used this ornamented gate upon returning home from a victorious battle.
CONSTANTINE'S COLUMN (ÇEMBERLITAS)
Located in the square of the same name, his column once bore the statue of Emperor Constantinius. The 35- meter high column suffered many damages in various periods of history which is why it was reinforced with iron bands.
GALATA TOWER
 The tower was built in 1348 for protection at the northernmost point of the Genovese walls. At that time it was called the "tower of Jesus". Once it was used as a prison for a period in the Ottoman times. In the 17th century during the reign of Murat IV, Hezarfen Ahmet Çelebi flew from this tower on self-made wings and landed in Üsküdar on the opposite shore of the Bosphorus.
GOLDEN HORN
 An old trading point and popular shoreline residential area during the Byzantine period, it was largely inhabited by Jewish immigrants from Spain during the Ottoman period. The mixtures of Armenians, Greeks, Gypsies and Turks living along its shores reflected the city's colorful mosaic. Since 1880 the famed Cibali cigarette factory has been operating there.
In Fener is the patriarchate and mother church of the Greek Orthodox Church and nearby, the Bulgarian Church, built of cast iron in the neo-gothic style.
At the far end of the Golden Horn is the Eyüp neighborhood and Eyüp Sultan Mosque, the most famous monument of these shores which has drawn countless Muslim pilgrims since the day it was built. On the cliffs above the mosque is the teahouse of Pierre Loti which offers the city's finest view of the Golden Horn.
THE GRAND BAZAAR
The Grand Bazaar consists of 4,000 shops on a series of covered streets leading to a central avenue. The oldest sections are the Sandal Bedesten (cloth auction) and Cevahir Bedesten (jewelry market).
The streets are named according to the trades, such as gold and silver sellers, carpet sellers, slipper sellers, bootsellers, booksellers, pursemakers, etc. The most oriental atmosphere in Istanbul is found in the bazaar, which also houses many good restaurants and cafes.
ISTIKLAL STREET
This street, formerly called Grande rue de Pera, was named Istiklal Caddesi by the Turks. In the 19th century most of the foreign embassies moved to this quarter. Today it is one of the city's leading shopping and entertainment districts.
KAVAKLAR
Anadolu Kavagi: This small fishermen's village on Yoros Cape is at the end of the Asian side of the Bosphorus and next to it is a military zone. The Fortress on the cape was actually built by the Byzantines but later came into Genovese hands. This neighborhood, reachable both by city ships and the land road, is the right spot for a good and cheap sea food.
Rumeli Kavagi: This neighborhood marks the last boat pier on the European side of the Bosphorus. On the rock of the lighthouse stands the Column of Pompeii which was part of an ancient shrine.
KIZ KULESI
 Leander (Leandros) used to swim to the opposite shore each night to reach his beloved Hera the priestess. She would wait at the shore with a torch to show him the way. But one night, the crazy wind, unaware of their love, suddenly changed in the opposite direction, causing the waves of the Bosphorus to become wilder and wilder. Hera's torch was blown out and Leander was lost forever in the waves. A lighthouse was built on the rocks to symbolize their love. The actual building was built on the reign of Mahmud II. in the 19th century and been used as a lighthouse since then.
KUMKAPI
Until very recently, Kumkapi was a neighborhood of mostly Armenians and Greeks. It is mainly a fishermen's village and has a high concentration of fish restaurants.
MAHMUTPASA BAZAAR
This market area, with numerous small shops on both sides of the street, is a symbol of cheap shopping in Istanbul. It is between Eminönü and the Grand Bazaar.
MISIR BAZAAR
The bazaar, that have been built connected to the Yenicami complex, takes its name from the source of the spices in old times.. The merchants of this colorful old covered market, also called the Spice Bazaar, sell spices, herbs, medicinals, dried fruits and a myriad of other goods in barrels and baskets. Today there are several boutiques found there.
POLONEZKOY
Immigrants, political refugees from Poland, built this village in 1842. It was originally called Adampol. The residents traditionally have earned their living by dairy farming and cattle keeping, though now many prefer to run small tourist pensions. It can be reached via Beykoz or over the newly constructed Kavacik Road.
PRINCES' ISLANDS
 Their very name evokes memories of a world of palaces and lives of glory, though in olden times this name had an echo of horror attached to it as well. These coastal islands, proffering most magnificent views of Constantinople, derive their name from those unfortunate princes and emperors of the imperial dynasty who were sent there in exile, blinded and forced to remain, so near and yet so far from their beloved city.
Though the islands are not very far from the city, they were a long distance in terms of the available transportation in those days. After small ships were put into use in 1846 and with today's rapid communications, the islands became just another shore line of Istanbul.
Scents of blooming mimosa in the early spring and jasmine flowers in the summertime fill the air on the islands with their beautiful mansions amid pine forests and the swimming areas on the shores.
 Büyükada (Prinkipo): As its name (Big Island) implies, this is the biggest island of all. On turning right from the boat docks, is the section called Nizam, and to the left is the section called Maden. The majority of residents on Büyükada are Jews. The island's two hills are 202 and 160 meters high. Nestled between these two hills is a Greek Orthodox monastery and Church of St. Niklaus. By renting a horse carriage, one can tour the island, the short tour covering the first hill and the big tour, the second hill. On the hill next to the amusement park is St. Georges Greek Orthodox monastery and church. Also on the island are four other Greek churches, St. Dimitrios, Panayia, St. Theodoros and Profitis; the Asdvadzadzin Armenian Catholic church; San Pacifico Roman Catholic church; Hesed Ie Avraam synagogue and Hamidiye mosque.
Heybeliada (Halki): Heybeliada is the island with the densest population and most frequent to and fro activity of all. It has four hills, highest of which is 140 meters. The naval academy is found on this island, and there is a sanatorium at Pine Harbor. In addition to the old Byzantine church of Kamariotissa which was built right before the Turkish conquest of Istanbul, Heybeliada's other houses of worship are the Church of St. Niklaus, monastery of St. Trias and Beth Yakov synagogue. On the highest hill stands a former theological school of the Greek Orthodox Church, which continued instruction up until 1970.
Kinaliada (Proti): Kinali is the closest island to the city and Armenians constitute the majority of its population. Although today this island could be reached within an hour by ship, in Byzantine days, most of the exiled ones, including Diogenes, were sent there. Surp Krikor Lusavorich church, Asri mosque and the Greek Orthodox Hristos (Christ) monastery on the Hill are located on Kinaliada.
Burgazada (Pyrgos): Greeks and Jews form the majority on Burgaz island. The home of one of the important authors of Turkish literature, Sait Faik (1906-1954), is open for viewing. The religious sites on the island include a mosque, the churches of St. Georges, St. Ionisis and Hristos, part of a former Orthodox monastery which stands at the top of the island.
Kasikada (Pytis): Only a caretaker and his family reside on this small, privately owned island, named for its spoon shape.
Yassiada: Yassiada has belonged to the Turkish navy for a long period. As it is uninhabited, it may seem to be quite insignificant, but in the year 1960, after the military intervention, government officials were incarcerated there and tried by a military court, making the island very famous and much discussed. Now it is used by the Istanbul University sea products department.
Sivriada (Oxya): The stray dogs of the Ottoman Empire in its last days were exiled to this island. The harbor isoften used by fishermen but the island has no permanent inhabitants.
SAHAFLAR
The sahafs, who used to have their stores in the Grand Bazaar are now located around a small square at the Beyazit Gate of the bazaar. The area has been restored and become a center for finding both new and used books.
SOGUKCESME STREET
 Situated between the northern side of Hagia Sophia and the outer walls of Topkapi Palace, Sogukçesme Street had fallen into a dilapidated state until the TTOK (Touring and Automobile Club of Turkey) restored the old houses and turned them into pensions.
SULTANAHMET
 The most important monumental buildings of the city are found in this section of old Istanbul. Ever since the Roman period, the imperial buildings and sanctuaries were situated there. Where Sultanahmet mosque (the "Blue Mosque") stands today, imperial palaces had stood, and Topkapi Palace stands atop the Roman Acropolis. The great cathedral Hagia Sophia of the Byzantine emperors still stands near Sultanahmet mosque.Sultanahmet is the mosque only mosque in the world with six minarets.
All these monuments remain in place, with the exception of the famed equestrian statues that once adorned the square and were later carried off by the Crusaders to Venice where they still stand in St. Mark's Cathedral square.
Ahmet III Fountain (3. Ahmet Çesmesi): Standing just to the right of the Bab-i-Humayun Gate of Topkapi Palace, this fountain is one of the most striking examples of the Baroque style fountains built in the city at the beginning of the 18th century. The fountain has a spout on each of its four sides.
The Built Pillar (Örmetas): It is said that the bronze plating that once covered this column was melted down and pressed into coins during the Latin invasion. During the Ottoman period acrobats used to climb up this rather odd-looking column and perform their feats.
Egyptian Obelisk (Dikilitas): After the world hegemony had passed to Rome, this column was brought from Egypt to Constantinople in 390 A.D. by Emperor Theodosius and placed on a square pedestal in the center of the hippodrome in the spina.
The obelisk could also be called as Theodosius Column. Reliefs on the pedestal depict Theodosius watching the races in the hippodrome and tell the story of how the column was erected. The Egyptian hieroglyphics on the column itself tell about sacrifices that thePharaoh Tutmosis made to the god Amon-Ra.
The Hippodrome: The hippodrome, which was built during the reign of Septimus Severus, on the square next to where Sultan Ahmet mosque is located, was 480 meters long by 117 meters wide and could contain 100,000 people. Many sculptures adorned the walls of the hippodrome. By means of special underground passageways, the emperor could reach the hippodrome or Hagia Sophia without leaving the palace. In the center of the arena was the spina around which the horse chariots would race. The hippodrome occupied a very important place in Byzantine social life. The most exciting of the many amusements that took place there were the chariot races between four teams representing the four elements: the blues representing air, greens representing earth, whites representing water and reds representing fire. In Ottoman times, hippodrome became an area where polo games and the circumcision ceremonies of the crown princes took place and named At Meydani.
Kaiser Wilhelm Fountain (Alman Çesmesi): This fountain was a gift of the kaiser to the Ottoman sultan.
Milion (Milion tasi): Situated today at the corner opposite to Hagia Sophia, this stone was known during the era of the Eastern Roman Empire to indicate point zero the forming of the known universe.
Serpentine Column (Burmali sutun): This stone, made of the bronze shields of Persian soldiers who were killed at the battle of Palatea, was brought to Constantinople from the Apollo Temple of Delphi. Its name is derived from the relief of three intertwined snakes that encircle it. It is said that the three snakes once had a golden bowl placed over their heads but this was melted down in order to press coins during the Latin invasion of the city. The two snake heads were lost during the Ottoman period and one of them is now displayed in the Istanbul Archaeology Museum.
TAKSIM
This area was once used as a cemetery. Later a big barracks was built around the square. Today some of these buildings are used by Istanbul Technical University. The Taksim Barrack was torn down in the Republican period. The square was named for the depot located there that regulated the water distribution of the city beginning in Ottoman times.
TEKFUR PALACE
This palace is the only remaining part of the early Byzantine Blachenea Palace next to the land walls. In the Ottoman period it was used as a stable until, in the 18th century a tile factory was established in the building for a period.
TURKISH BATHS
A Turkish bath (hamam) is on the itinerary of most visitors to Istanbul. The baths are open to men and women at different hours of the day. Traditionally these baths with their marble floors and basins have been a part of daily life in Turkey. The different units are kept at different temperatures. The center stones are slabs where you can sweat. The personnel, tellak for men and natir for women, will massage the skin with a roul silk cloth (kese).
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| © 2006 21st European Congress of Pathology |
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